Tuesday, June 23, 2009

low power transmeter




This low power transmitter is designed to use an input from another sound source and transmits on the commercial FM band. This low power fm radio transmitter it is actually quite powerful…
The first stage is the oscillator, and is tuned with the variable capacitor. Select an unused frequency, and carefully adjust C3 until the background noise stops (you have to disable the FM receiver’s mute circuit to hear this).

When assembling the fm transmitter circuit, make sure the rotor of C3 is connected to the +9V supply. This ensures that there will be minimal frequency disturbance when the screwdriver touches the adjustment shaft. You can use a small piece of non copper-clad circuit board to make a screwdriver – this will not alter the frequency.

Q1 is a conventional Colpitts oscillator design. The audio signal applied to the base of Q1 causes the frequency to change, as the transistor’s collector current is modulated by the audio. This provides the frequency modulation (FM) that can be received on any standard FM band receiver.

The inductors are 9.5 turns of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire. They are close wound on a 3mm diameter former, which is removed after the coils are wound.
The output is a low power of 100 mW, but for some of you this fm rf transmitter can delivers the desired power for broadcasting on your street or with a proper antenna you can cover a small neighborhood. If you need a power wireless fm transmitter use the above menu, you can find transmitters starting with low fm power up to high power fm transmitters.


Here it's PCB layouts




Fm transmeters









this is a small but quite powerful FM transmitter having three RF stages incorporating an audio preamplifier for better modulation. t has an output power of 4 Watts and works off 12-18 VDC which makes it easily portable. It is the ideal project for the beginner who wishes to get started in the fascinating world of FM broadcasting and wants a good basic circuit to experiment with.

Parts List

R1 = 220K
R2 = 4,7K
R3 = R4 = 10K
R5 = 82 Ohm
R = 150Ohm 1/2W x2 *
VR1 = 22K trimmer

C1 = C2 = 4,7uF 25V electrolytic
C3 = C13 = 4,7nF ceramic
C4 = C14 = 1nF ceramic
C5 = C6 = 470pF ceramic
C7 = 11pF ceramic
C8 = 3-10pF trimmer
C9 = C12 = 7-35pF trimmer
C10 = C11 = 10-60pF trimmer
C15 = 4-20pF trimmer
C16 = 22nF ceramic *

L1 = 4 turns of silver coated wire at 5,5mm diameter
L2 = 6 turns of silver coated wire at 5,5mm diameter
L3 = 3 turns of silver coated wire at 5,5mm diameter
L4 = printed on PCB
L5 = 5 turns of silver coated wire at 7,5mm diameter

RFC1=RFC2=RFC3= VK200 RFC tsok

TR1 = TR2 = 2N2219 NPN
TR3 = 2N3553 NPN
TR4 = BC547/BC548 NPN
D1 = 1N4148 diode *
MIC = crystalic microphone


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You'll find that this is a very easy project to build. It will transmit good quality sound in the FM band ( 88 - 108 Mhz ). One important item is that the IC chip operates on 3 volts DC. The chip will get destroyed if it is operated on any voltage higher than 3.5 volts. The antenna can be a standard telescopic antenna or a 2 foot length of wire. The input is in the millivolt range and you may need to add additional pots for the inputs. I was able to use this circuit for a walkmen and a portable CD player in my car. I used the headphone jack on both and varied the signal with the volume control.

To adjust the circuit tune your FM radio to a quite spot then adjust the trimmer capacitor C8 until you hear the signal that you are transmitting. When you have a strong signal adjust the resistor R4 until the stereo signal indicator lights. If the input is to high of a signal you may over drive the IC chip. Use two 15 turn pots on the input signals to bring the level down. You can balance the signal by using headphones. The inductor L1 is 3 turns of .5 mm wire on a 5 mm ferrite core.

Source : http://home.maine.rr.com/randylinscott/feb98.htm

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Notes:
L1 is 0.112uH (this tunes to the middle of the FM band, 98 MHz, with VC1 at its centre value of 33pF). L1 is 5 turns of 22 swg enamelled copper wire close-wound on a 5mm (3/16") diameter former. Alternatively, you can have a fixed 33pF cap instead of VC1 and have L1 as an adjustable molded coil (eg UF64U from Maplin). VC1 will give you a tuning range of 85 - 125 MHz, and a possible choice is the Philips type polypropylene film trimmer (Maplin code WL72P). Two sets of oscillator bias resistors are given, the ones in the brackets give about 20% more RF power. Mike is our favorite Omnidirectional sub-mini electret (Maplin code FS43W). Ant is a (lambda / 4) whip monopole (eg 76 cms of 22 swg copper wire). Q1 is configured as a Clapp oscillator. Frequency modulation results from the audio voltage changing the transistor's base-emitter capacitance.

Source :: http://www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/Circuits/rf/txcct.htm
By Kamran Ahmed - UK

24 hour timer


These two circuits are multi-range timers offering periods of up to 24 hours and beyond. Both are essentially the same. The main difference is that when the time runs out, Version 1 energizes the relay and Version 2 de-energizes it. The first uses less power while the timer is running; and the second uses less power after the timer stops. Pick the one that best suits your application.

Monday, June 22, 2009

hi-fi pre amplifier

I found this schematic from the site www.zen22142.zen.co.uk/
This site contains electronic schematics, articles on design, analysis and theory of electronic circuits. In addition there are sections on simulation and a practical section containing hints and tips

This is a diagram of a hi-fi preamplifire
circuit and it's worth to try.